Review: No.4 Bar & Restaurant

Perched atop a mini-beach of greywacke pebbles and driftwood, the ocean-fresh Bluff oysters glisten in their half shells while their deep-fried counterparts tempt with a golden batter. We’ve opted for a 50-50 split of each, torn between the briny freshness of the natural state and the well-earned reputation preceding the No.4 Famous Beer Battered variety. The latter choice comes with an addictive malt vinegar on the side, their primo marriage of crunchy exterior and delicate moreishness beneath makes them an instant hit, while the pristine plump natural oysters ignite an intense flavour explosion when tricked up with the accompanying cucumber vinaigrette with a kick, and are brilliant between sips of the chilled charms and refreshing mineral edge of Jules Taylor Sauvignon Blanc.

We’ve paired the world famous molluscs with the Panang Flatbread, a feisty fresh fusion of Asian dukkah, tofu, coriander and Panang pesto, where a sprinkling of pork crackling shines things off with a satisfying crunch and sets a high bar for the evening’s proceedings. A stalwart on the Christchurch dining scene, No.4 Bar & Restaurant has the chilled, easy-going charms that have a way of making all cares of the outside world melt away on arrival. Housed in a 1920s Edwardian villa in the heart of Merivale, we’re greeted by blazing fires in the al fresco areas and the black-clad efficiency of front of house charmer Alex Hines, who deftly guides us to an intimate enclave off the main bar. The restaurant’s full house on a Monday signals the next level gastro fare to come, while bright red poppy designed lampshades hang from the ceiling and natural timber, buttery leather seating and copper furnishings create an upscale home vibe and are all set to a soundtrack of the excited chatter and clink of contented diners. After Alex divulges the history on crowd favourite and back-by-popular-demand Risotto we immediately order it alongside the Pork Belly. Both rocking an Asian twist; the Risotto is a party-in-the-mouth starting a riot of flavours and the perfect union of sweet, salty and sour with firm-fleshed flavoursome prawns studding thick, al dente risotto. It’s set off with the citric tang of lime and delightful heat of a fierce sambal tempered by coconut and the added textural, nutty crunch of deep fried shallots. Similarly impressive, the Pork Belly’s art-on-a-plate presentation delivers a melt-in-the-mouth rich rendered meaty hit complete with audible crackling.

The ravishing hum of a Malaysian kumara and apple curry is a welcome and refreshing take on the traditional apple sauce staple and a sublime wine match by Alex, Main Divide Merlot Cabernet’s blackcurrant, berry fruits and plum flavours and velvety finish, provides the perfect cut through. We meet our sticky end with an exclusive, yet to make it to the dessert menu cocktail – the Caramel Dessert Martini and the Trio of Lemon. Fittingly garnished with a Lindt caramel chocolate, in lieu of the classic skewered olive, drinks guru Reece Gardner’s martini is a dreamy, creamy concoction of butterscotch liqueur and vodka layered over a decadent caramel. Underpinned by elements of saltwater taffy and spices, it’s a show-stopping liquid dessert and perfect foil to the acid profile of the lemon threesome. The tangy trifecta offers a prettily plated deconstructed lamington and a sharp lemon tart, complete with a caramelised brittle top and buttery crust, blow torched smoky meringue, and whirls of tarty lemon and cream. Sated as we are, there’s still the matter of the too-good-to-leave caramel in the martini glass, which sees us both reaching for our spoons.

No. 4 Bar & Restaurant, 4 Mansfield Avenue, 03 355 3720, no4bar.co.nz

Review: No.4 Bar & Restaurant
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